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Aresta Arcarons als Plecs del Llibre, Montserrat

Publié le 28 December 2015 | Catalunya Eng, Spain

One of Montserrat's great classics, on one of the massif's most original rock formations, the Aresta Arcarons, opened in 1978, climbs the Plec Superior ridge in 6 aerial pitches in an exceptional setting and atmosphere. Although the route has recently been re-equipped, the equipment remains minimalist in the classic spirit of Montserrat climbing. In short, the difficult passages (V+ and above) are bolted, while the rest has little or no equipment, with very few options for protection. In IV+ or V, you can therefore expect to go more than 10m without anything... In other words, it's all a question of positioning yourself with your feet and accepting the option of a 20m fall with your head. Despite this, the route is a local must. The views of the Plecs on the way back are exceptional.

Technical summary

Type ✦ Semi-equipped long route

Location ✦ Montserrat

Region ✦ Catalunya

Country ✦ Spain

Lengths ✦ 6

Vertical drop ✦ 190m

Difficulty max ✦ 6a, A1e

Orientation ✦ South

Interest ✦ ★★

Access to the place

Take the A2 from Barcelona towards Lleida and exit at Bruc (572). Make a U-turn at the exit, then cross the housing estate to enter the forest and reach the Vinya Nova restaurant. Turn left towards Can Jorba and shortly before reaching it, after a right-angle bend, park at the entrance to cami de los Francesos (see map).

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 1h

Follow the marked path up to the pass where you switch to the Canal de Miglia side. There's a panoramic view of La Cajoleta in the foreground, the Plecs del Llibre leaning against the Montgros in the background, and the Talaïa finger in the distance. Descend to reach the Canal de Miglia, then climb up a little. Once past the foot of the Cajoleta, turn left into the canal dels Plecs (little marked). Go up the canal, past sloping rocky slabs to arrive directly at the foot of Aresta Arcarons (1st needle on the right).

Course

South-facing, the Aresta Arcarons route is 190m long in 6 pitches (35m, 35m, 30m, 35m, 20m, 35m). Semi-equipped, it's essential to bring a set of small friends or micro, a few small jammers for protection on all pitches and a pedal for the pas d'artif' on L6. Difficult passages are well protected with bolts. All belays are equipped for abseiling except R5 (old rusty spits). You'll need a dozen quickdraws and a 2x60m rope (return abseil). This is an exposed and aerial climb, on rock of generally very good quality.

Length 1 (35m, V)

Climb along the crack, a small hole for protection at 5 or 6m, then a friend higher up before reaching 1er bolt. Pass over the ridge and climb a not-so-obvious wall (4 bolts in all) and finish free up to the IV belay.

Length 2 (35m, V+)

Right-hand start, then a thin but well-protected wall, above which a nail, then nothing. A small hole after 7 or 8m then a crack under a plate before reaching an old piton with a rusty ring and finishing in R2.

Length 3 (30m, V+)

Exposed start with a single small hole for protection before the 1st bolt at the difficult passage. Further up you can put something in a horizontal crack before reaching the unprotected belay on a small flat.

Length 4 (35m, 6a)

Once again, an exposed start before the 6a passage, following the bolts. Above, it's easier, but there's nothing, just 1 small, exploitable hole before the R4 belay.

Length 5 (20m IV+)

It's easy but there's nothing to put in before 15m (a crack under a plate). Easy finish for belay R5 under the final overhang.

Length 6 (35m, IV+/A1e)

2 bolts to pass the artificial pitch, not easy and difficult to get out of (estrep useful). The rest of the route is unprotected before finishing on the right on a ramp that you only see at the end. At the top, the final belay is on the opposite side (descent belay).

Back

Long and not so simple. Basically, you have to cross the ridge of all the Plecs before you can abseil. So you descend a short 20m abseil on the west side to get between the 2 needles. Climb up between the 2 needles to the small col (a tree equipped to be left) and climb the next summit without protection (IV+ expo) then descend again between the 2 needles to a tree.

Here you have to climb again unprotected (no V expo at the start) and continue the traverse to descend again and climb again until you find the tree equipped with belts. Abseil 60m to the bottom of a ramp and de-escalate in III to the bottom. Head due south to find the path that joins the Plecs canal below, heading east. The descent is not easy, with lots of vegetation (but we did it at night). We then pass again more or less at the foot of the track. Then it's the approach road in the opposite direction: Canal de Miglia and Cami de los Francesos to the parking lot.