TOPO Climbing | CLIMBING7.COM

Hadash, wadi Mistall, Oman

Publié le 1 November 2013 | Oman Eng

Northern Oman, in the heart of the Western Hajar, at the end of the immense cirque formed by the Mistall wadi, the tiny village of Hadash, perched at 1500m at the foot of the cliffs that border the territory. Here, a little further on, at the bend in a gorge lined with purple and blue slate, is a magnificent climbing site, first equipped in 2007/2008 and since extended to other sectors. Almost fifty routes, well equipped on the whole, on excellent rock, ranging from black to orange, very abrasive in places, a beautiful limestone dating from the pre-permian period, yes it does...Arriving from the village, we first find the new Read's Wall sector, then continuing 5′ up the flank and heading back towards the hollow of the next gorge, the Sulfureuse Crag and Black Crag sectors, further down Wall with Roofs and finally The Pit.

Technical summary

Access to the place

From Route 1, which links Muscat to Sohar along the coast, turn off at El Barka onto Route 13, which heads for Nakhal, then El Awabi and Rustaq. Pass Nakhal and about 15 km further on, on the road to El Awabi, turn left onto the road signposted Wadi Mistall. The first 10 km are tarmac, then a wide track that runs into the center of the immense Wadi Mistall plain. Go all the way to the end, about 30 kms to find a fork with Al Hegar on the right and Hadash on the right. A few more steep, narrow kms then follow to reach the village of Hadash. Park just inside the entrance. The W24 trek linking Hadash to Wukan via the ridges is right here.

Map & topo

For the sector topos, download Ross Weiter's original document (2007, updated 2008) and visit the 27 Crags website, where you'll find all the updates, particularly on the first Read's Wall sector.

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 10' à 20'

Drive through the village. People are smiling, and we come across some goats that live here freely. At the end, go down a small path that was a bit dirty at first (garbage chute). Opposite you can see the rounded purple ridge and the first walls. Cross it on the flank in a hollow, then skirt around the hump below the walls. You soon reach the Read's Wall sector. For the other sectors, continue on the path which rises a little and then sinks into the hollow of the next gorge. In 5′ you arrive at the foot of Sulfureuse Crag, and below Wall with Roofs and The Pit.

Course Les voies

They are all bolted and equipped with a recall relay (with or without chain). The equipment is good, even if sometimes the distance between the points and especially between 1st and 2d is (too) great. The routes are between 10 and 20/25m at first sight, so a 60m is sufficient. The sectors face north or north-west, so there's shade most of the day. Magnificent views over the Mistall wadi, a peaceful, natural atmosphere. Here's what we climbed today:

READ'S WALL SECTOR

27 jugs (15m, V+)

Nice warm-up route, you have to climb between the nails, with a good vertical passage in the middle. Lots of sharp holds!

Goat Thief (15m, 6a)

Starts just right and follows a crack, then goes slightly diagonal right to join the end of the 6b next to it (different drawing on 27 Crags?). Nice route, same style but a little higher.

Down Town Hadash (18m, 6b)

Along the ridge. A very fine route, thinner with a vertical middle section and on rulers. Very well equipped. Atmosphere with the plain underfoot.

SULFUR CRAG SECTOR

Tufa Man (12m, 6b)

Less abrasive rock, a good starting pitch (2nd nail too high) then climb the ridge, easier finish.

The Ramp (15m, 6a)

Just to the right of the previous one. A ramp to be climbed with finesse and balance. An easier final climb, but very poorly protected!

SECTOR WALL WITH ROOFS

T.K.O (20m, 6c)

1st slab section without any major difficulty. All the difficulty is concentrated in the diagonal roof passage with some fine holds, but very athletic and traversing.

Project (20m, 6c/7a ?)

Idem T.K.O with 1st part in accessible slab although small fine passages. Then the roof, it's all there, a huge step to grab a hole and get out. Attempted but failed!