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Abierto hasta el atardecer a la Serrat d’En Muntaner, Montserrat, Spain

Publié le 5 May 2012 | Catalunya Eng, Spain

Montserrat south face, back to Clot de la Monica. La Serrat d'En Muntaner west face. Ideally exposed for a spring afternoon, this great route is really accessible, with just one 6a pitch that could be worth V+. In the end, it's the start of the first V+ pitch that's the trickiest. Open to the plain, the view is very aerial. We finish on the Serrat d'En Muntaner ridge, which juts out like a bow over the olive groves. The descent via the east face is very pleasant and rounds off a pleasant, not too difficult and fast outing. The afternoon can be rounded off with some sporty climbing on the east face.

Technical summary

Access to the place

From Barcelona, drive to Collbato and climb through the village to join the track leading to Vinya Nova. After a few hairpin bends and before reaching the restaurant, there's a straight stretch of esplanade under the trees where you can park on the left. This is the Clot de la Monica and you're right in front of the Serrat d'En Muntaner and its huge neighbor, the Pastereta (with a big, elongated nose...).

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 20'

Take the well-marked path leading up the mountain from the parking lot. After a few hundred metres, continue straight ahead on a tiny blue-marked path. It twists and turns upwards, and you soon come to the Serrat in question, with that big rock in front of it: el Frare Baix. Turn left onto one of the paths leading down to the foot of el Frare and cross over to the other side, on the west side. From here, descend a little and walk along the wall. It's a bit difficult to spot because of the lack of distance. Let's say it's about 50m away, and there's a small dirt entrance leading up to the start.

Course

The southwest-facing route is 95m long in 3 pitches (35m, 40m, 20m). The equipment is good. Provide a dozen quickdraws.

L1 (35m, V+)

It's the first few meters of the wall that are tricky to negotiate in V+, but there's everything you need if you look hard enough. The rest is easier in V and then IV+. Before arriving at the belay, there's a small bulge to be negotiated without too much difficulty.

L2 (40m, 6a)

Exit the belay diagonally to the right and climb V to a kind of lip. The 6a pitch (the only one) is very well protected and if you use the inverted crack to climb back up to the left, you can carabiner without any problem. The holds are small but straightforward and very easy to use. Then a beautiful V-shaped sequence with good holds up to the R2 belay on a flat.

L3 (20m, IV+)

There's no point in this last pitch except to finish the route and, above all, to be able to descend by abseiling the east face. Nice view over the plain and Pastereta.

Back

Follow the ridge all the way south and climb to the head of Frare Baix. There's a knotted rope to the "Petit Guifré" belay below. With a 2x60m rope, you can reach the ground in one go. From here, take the approach path in the opposite direction to the Clot de la Monica parking lot.