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Aresta Brucs a Can Jorba, Montserrat, Spain

Publié le 17 October 2010 | Catalunya Eng, Spain

This route extends the routes that reach the summit of Miranda de Can Jorba, La Gloria and Escabroni-Escapullini, to complete the ascent of Agulla de Can Jorba. Although very easy, it is totally unequipped and requires a little equipment to protect the climb: a few friends, merlet lanyards and shrubs. The first pitch is particularly exposed, with a possible first point more than 20m above the ground. We climb due south with a magnificent view of Can Jorba and the Bego-Miguel-Kush route that joins it at the summit. A good way to exit from the top when you've just done one of the Miranda routes (rather than call back) and make a big loop back via the Joc de l'oca canal and the cami de los franceses.

Technical summary

Access to the place

Take the A2 from Barcelona towards Leida and exit at Bruc. Go through the residential area and take a track through the forest and olive groves. Reach Can Jorba further west than Vinya Nova. This is a building with a small parking lot under the trees, almost at the foot of the first cliffs.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start

It is (almost) essential to take one of the routes up the Can Jorba miranda.

Course

The route is south-facing and 100m long in 3 pitches (20m, 40m, 40m). There's no equipment except the R3, so you'll need to bring 6 quickdraws, merlet lanyards and a few small friends. Level is IV/IV+.

L1 (20m, III/II)

Climb up to the summit dome, which is wide and comfortable on arrival. A belay can be set up on a shrub in the middle. You're now at the foot of the aiguille proper.

L2 (40m, IV)

Start straight up the slightly sloping wall. Good holds are found. A first belay point can be placed in the hollow of the first horizontal crack (camelot n°3) and after a good 20 meters a lanyard around a stone to make a sort of merlet. Continue upwards and a little to the right to find a shrub and place a 2nd lanyard. Continue for a while to reach a tree where you can rig the 2nd belay.

L3 (40m, II/III)

No belay point possible except when the route joins the last pitch of the B.M.K. on the right in a shrub 10m from the summit. Beware of the crumbly rock at this point, which can only be climbed with a baby carriage. Relay 3 is from the summit and is very well equipped.

Back

Cross to the other side of the summit and descend to the left along the rocky outcrop, skirting it from below and skirting it to the left (flush). This almost takes you all the way round to a small ridge overlooking the Joc de l'oca canal gorge on the right. Follow the passage until you reach a small, steep canal at the end, which runs straight down to the Joc de l'Osa. Once in the canal, climb up to the left, then turn right at the first T junction. This is the Migdia canal, which you need to climb for 15′ to find the return path on the right (a small path with an illegible wooden sign on a tree). Follow this track (10′) until you come to el Cami de los Franceses, which you turn right onto. A steep and fairly long descent to the Collbato-Can Jorba track.