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Qarn al Ghamaydah, Jebel Shams, trek W4, Oman

Publié le 23 May 2013 | Oman Eng

What's that? Quite simply, the southern summit of Jebel Shams. At least, that's what it says on the official topo... As for the altitude, I don't know: 2997m on the same guidebook, 3075 on wikipedia, 3009 elsewhere, 3007m I don't know where... Let's round it up to 3000, which makes this the highest rock in Oman. Having said that, this summit looks like nothing, and the trek is worthwhile above all for the incredible views over the grand canyon of Wadi Nakhur to the south as you climb from the plateau, and over Wadi Sahtam with its 2000m vertiginous walls on the ridge to the north. Officially marked with the triple red, white and yellow stripe, the W4 trail is easy. The ascent starts at around 2000m and gradually climbs along the grand canyon before heading up the ridge to the summit.

Technical summary

Access to the place

From Al Hamra (between Ibri and Nizwa), head for the plateau overlooking the grand canyon, the trek's base camp. Ascend the Wadi Ghul, pass the abandoned village and continue for a further 30km between track and asfalte to reach the plateau at 1950m (4×4 preferable, but you can take a sedan if the weather is dry). There's a resort on the left, the start sign blown up by the sun. Take the downhill track, where the first W4 markings appear. There's a good spot under the trees for camping.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

The trek is signposted all the way, and that's just as well, because there are no marked trails as such. You walk on gravel and rock. The markings are very visible, sometimes in abundance (!), but I managed to get lost 2 or 3 times, more on the way out than on the way back (probably due to the frontal sun on the way up). The climb can be divided into 4 parts.

Part 1: towards the edge of the canyon

Starting from the plateau, and after passing 2 or 3 small wadis, the path leads to the Pulpit, at the edge of the grand canyon (a small rocky tower overlooking Wadi Nakhur).

Part 2: up the dome

The trail skirts the precipice and the views are all exceptional. The gigantic dimensions of this canyon become apparent. There's a drop-off much higher up, where you descend a little before climbing back up to the edge, but you can feel that you're coming to the end.

Part 3: join the ridge

At this point, the path veers off to the right and diagonally follows the ridge, giving us a view of Wadi Sahtam on the north side. Above us on the left is the other summit of Jebel Sham, with its weather radar (military zone).

Part 4: the ridge

This last section is perhaps the most challenging. Certainly because of the altitude, which ranges from 2700 to 3000m, but also because we have to climb up and down quite a few times to reach the last summit. There are one or two passages to climb, very easy ones, and finally you see the end, the Qarn Al Ghamaydah, which looks like a sort of bow protruding above the void. In places, the path literally skims the precipice, which is very impressive, with your feet on a ledge suspended above the void.

Back

We turn around and take the same path in the opposite direction. No surprise then, with just as much rock, so watch your ankles. The views of the grand canyon are also worth the effort in this direction, but in a different light. Vertiginous.