Gorges de la Jonte, after le Révérend, le Bitard, the name alone is enough to make you want to go for a walk... Sector further east in the gorges, to the right of the famous roche décollée, a huge wedge of rock planted there, in front of the cliff. We started on Plaisir de Cocagne and ended up on a new route from L2, freshly equipped (name?), because we couldn't find the continuation of L2 de Cocagne in the dihedral (which we had to leave to climb the ridge, apparently, but we didn't see it). As a result, this great 110m route, which weaves its way between Plaisirs de Cocagne and Vent Artique, is very well equipped, with a superb L3 in V+/6a and a rather original final chimney. Fantastic view of the rock and gorges.
Départ sous la roche décollée
Technical summary
Access to the place
From the village of Le Rozier, at the entrance to the Jonte gorges. Follow the road eastwards into the gorges, and after 5′, at a path with a chain running down it to the right, park (a large boulder lies on the roadside). You're now level with the Venus de Millau rock below.
Itinerary description
Hiking to the start 30'
It starts a little further up the road, on the left, at a huge Swiss cheese-shaped rock called Body Buiding. Take the steep path that starts there and head upwards. Spot the loose rock and head right to reach the base of the Bitard cliff. A number 11 is vaguely marked at the foot of the path. A good sweat in prospect.
Course
The route is south-facing, south-east, and by our calculations is 110m in 3 pitches (35m, 35m, 40m). The equipment on L2 and L3 is new, still marked with chalk crosses.
L1 (35m, V)
Start on the Plaisirs de Cocagne route, 1st high point, then follow slightly to the right and upwards. Arrive at the belay where we see a line to the left (tested but not seen following in the dihedral) and another to the right, new which goes to another belay 5m away.
L2 (35m, V+)
So we went out on the right (after trying the left). Very nice length, good climbing, sustained V+, borderline 6a on the conti. The route makes a left turn and then heads for the large final dihedral.
L3 (40m, V+/6a)
Easy ascent to the dihedral. A fine step on a double crack and an acrobatic snap hook to reach a flat and enter a very closed chimney. Climb up the chimney in opposition to the dihedral, an original, committed and even slightly exposed climb, and exit with an athletic movement on the ridge. The final belay is on a tree.
Back
A bit improvised because we had no information. We decided to abseil the route despite our 70m rope. In short, the 1st abseil is of course too short, but goes through with elasticity (be careful not to lose the rope when undoing the matis!). The next 2 go through, but just, por los pelés, to the metre. From the ground, we descend the Chemin du Bitard back to the road and parking lot.
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