Access to the place
Hiking to the start 10'
Climb up on the more or less marked trail that starts at the bottom of the clearing (cairn). You come to the right of the Fudge Boulders sector. Go around the top to access the routes. The more interesting Caveman Boulders sector is a little further to the right (looking out over the plain), descending slightly to climb up to the base of the boulder. For our part, not knowing the area, we arrived by machete at the foot of Animal Boulder, a boulder located just in front of Fudge Boulder, below.
Course Les voies
They are all equipped with bolts or sealed rings. Some departures are poorly protected, with the risk of a ground return up to the 2nd or 3rd bolt. The belays are equipped for rappelling. On Animal Boulder and Caveman Boulders, it's possible to fit a top-rope from the top. Allow for a dozen quickdraws. Fudge Boulders is north-facing, and the 3 routes on the right seem very hard and under-priced (it looks like we're in a 6 rather than a 5). Animal Boulder is south-facing and Caveman Boulders is more south-westerly, so can be climbed in the morning. For more details, visit thecrag. com, which also describes the sectors and routes of krobos and Shaï Hills.
I'm not a Penguin (24m, 6a+/6b ?)
Only route in the sector. Slab climbing at the start to reach the rounded ridge to the right of the tree trunk stuck to the wall. A fine, very vertical passage leads out onto a flat area before a final, poorly protected step (which we didn't take) that looks very pumpy to reach the belay, one floor above. We leave the Fudge Boulders sector just a few metres away.
The 3 routes on the right seemed very (too) hard, so we gave up and the one on the left was easier but very short. We opted instead for Caveman Boulders, which is actually much more interesting...
Rusty Monkey (16m, 6a)
The 1st line on the right after the small central cave. Interesting and fine for the first 10 meters, the rest is easier (V+). 2nd nail a little high, ojo! Can be reached from the top by circling the rock from the left (climb to the level of a tree that gives access to the ridge).
Cinnamon Wisky (24m, 6a)
The next one down a little to the right. It's similar to the previous one: fine and delicate for 10m, then an easier 2nd section, nice holds. Can also be equipped from the top.
T-Rex (24m, 6b+)
Again, the next one down to the right. The start is much harder, with a big, fine pitch (6b+, 6c?). Then it's more accessible. The belay is a little lower than its neighbors. Beautiful route.