Climbing in Ghana: a first! The Krobos site is on the road north of Accra that leads into the Volta region, a little before Akosombo, on the right, and just after the other local site, Shaï Hills. Planted in the middle of the savannah, on a modest but interesting hill from which emerge a few large boulders and even, near the top, some pretty cliffs that have yet to be exploited. This is a rind site, with equipped routes between 10 and 30m maximum, on excellent rock. The site doesn't seem to be very busy and access to the foot of the routes isn't that easy, in the middle of 2m grass, not to mention the sweltering heat and the cloud of midges and mosquitoes (or worse, gnats!) that have also made the trip. From the top of the tracks, we overlooked the plain, today under a hazy blanket of heat and humidity, pierced by magnificent baobabs. Only a few antelopes were missing from the picture, although antelope means antelope predator, which would have slightly complicated matters.
I’m not a Penguin
Technical summary
Access to the place
Easy from Accra, but not really fast. It's a long way out of town. Once on the road in question, drive past Shaï Hills (reserve indicated on the right) to spot the characteristic Krobos hill on the right about ten kilometers further on. A sign indicates where to turn. 1 or 2 kms of road/trail leads at the end to the left to a clearing (wooden gate open at the entrance) where you can park. The climbing areas are above, on the hillside, and easily identifiable (cf. photo).
Itinerary description
Hiking to the start 10'
Climb up on the more or less marked trail that starts at the bottom of the clearing (cairn). You come to the right of the Fudge Boulders sector. Go around the top to access the routes. The more interesting Caveman Boulders sector is a little further to the right (looking out over the plain), descending slightly to climb up to the base of the boulder. For our part, not knowing the area, we arrived by machete at the foot of Animal Boulder, a boulder located just in front of Fudge Boulder, below.
Course Les voies
They are all equipped with bolts or sealed rings. Some departures are poorly protected, with the risk of a ground return up to the 2nd or 3rd bolt. The belays are equipped for rappelling. On Animal Boulder and Caveman Boulders, it's possible to fit a top-rope from the top. Allow for a dozen quickdraws. Fudge Boulders is north-facing, and the 3 routes on the right seem very hard and under-priced (it looks like we're in a 6 rather than a 5). Animal Boulder is south-facing and Caveman Boulders is more south-westerly, so can be climbed in the morning. For more details, visit thecrag. com, which also describes the sectors and routes of krobos and Shaï Hills.
ANIMAL BOULDER
I'm not a Penguin (24m, 6a+/6b ?)
Only route in the sector. Slab climbing at the start to reach the rounded ridge to the right of the tree trunk stuck to the wall. A fine, very vertical passage leads out onto a flat area before a final, poorly protected step (which we didn't take) that looks very pumpy to reach the belay, one floor above. We leave the Fudge Boulders sector just a few metres away.
FUDGE BOULDERS
The 3 routes on the right seemed very (too) hard, so we gave up and the one on the left was easier but very short. We opted instead for Caveman Boulders, which is actually much more interesting...
CAVEMAN BOULDERS
Rusty Monkey (16m, 6a)
The 1st line on the right after the small central cave. Interesting and fine for the first 10 meters, the rest is easier (V+). 2nd nail a little high, ojo! Can be reached from the top by circling the rock from the left (climb to the level of a tree that gives access to the ridge).
Cinnamon Wisky (24m, 6a)
The next one down a little to the right. It's similar to the previous one: fine and delicate for 10m, then an easier 2nd section, nice holds. Can also be equipped from the top.
T-Rex (24m, 6b+)
Again, the next one down to the right. The start is much harder, with a big, fine pitch (6b+, 6c?). Then it's more accessible. The belay is a little lower than its neighbors. Beautiful route.
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