A short trip to RAK, in the wadi Shah, to explore this rather interesting sport climbing sector equipped by Ralph H.. Located roughly on the ice of Cleavage on the other side, the sector comprises a good fifteen routes, mainly bolted but with a few trad routes too. With its north-west exposure, you can climb here all day without any worries. The rock is good, very abrasive in places, and the equipment is generally excellent. We were able to re-climb the 3 right-hand slab routes before trying out two more on the way back to the left. A good option for a half-day or to warm up without breaking your fingers before setting off on the big route. The entire sector is described in detail, including access, routes, rock conditions and camping spots, on the Summitpost.org page written by Ralph himself. Note the choice of names for the sector and the routes, enough to keep motivation high!
Départ Auto-Eroticism
Technical summary
Access to the place
This is the same as for all sectors of Wadi Shah. Once in the wadi, follow the tarmac road up to the entrance to Cleavage. Park on the right-hand side. The sector is there, on the right-hand side, up ahead (no visible access path).
Itinerary description
Hiking to the start 10'
Descend to the roadside before tackling the rubble and rocky slope that leads to the foot of the tracks. There's no signposted path, so navigate by sight according to the track you're aiming for.
Course Les voies
Most of them are equipped, and well equipped, sometimes for almost 30m. So don't forget to bring plenty of quickdraws and a 60m minimum. Equipped and chained belays.
Swinging in RAK (24m, 6a)
The leftmost route of the rightmost slab in the sector (I hope that's clear ;D). It's all about the athletic step on the 3rd nail to climb up the back of the slab. The rest is simpler, prettier, along the ridge.
Mutual Stimulation (27m, 6a)
The route in the center of the slab. More homogeneous than its neighbor on the left, impressive start but not hard, a finer passage at the top where you have to search a little on tiny rulers.
Auto-eroticism (31m, 6a+)
The rightmost this time, starts in the dihedral. Similar to the previous one, fine, sustained and homogeneous, but with no big steps.
Harder than your husband (19m, 6a, 7 quickdraws)
This route turns left after crossing a small gully. The 6a is in the final pitch, staying on the domed ridge (otherwise go round to the right to exit in a V).
Tantric Joy (30m, V/V+, 9 quickdraws)
After the cave, start in the dihedral and follow the ridge. Very good length, with some nice holes to climb.
Stardust, Ras Al Khaimah, Emirates 13 January 2017 Stardust is a sports climbing area north of Ras Al Khaimah, just before Wadi Ghalilah. Recently equipped...
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