At the very top of the Wadi Bani Awf, beneath the magnificent village of Bilad Seet, a small, splendid limestone gorge is home to several dozen sport climbing routes opened in the early 2000s by Patrick Cabiro and Nathalie Hanriot, French guides hired by the Omani government to develop climbing in Oman. New session since last year, new routes discovered in the right and left branches of the fork. The equipment (bolts) is good, even if some nails are still a long way off, notably the first 2 with somewhat exposed starts. But the rock is fantastic, aggressive in places with an army of sharp spikes, and a very special atmosphere for climbing, under the amused gaze of passing villagers, who comment, observe and even ask to climb after us...barefoot.
Au pied des voies
Technical summary
Access to the place
From the coastal road from Sohar to Muscat, take the road to Rustaq and enter the wadi bain Auf in the direction of Hat and Bilad Sayt. 4×4 obligatory as after a few km of road, you have to finish on the track which climbs steeply at the end with some very airy passages. At the top, leave the track leading up to Bilad Sayt on the right and descend to the terraces (bivouac possible). Continue on to find the entrance to the Gorgette, just before the track climbs up to the Sharaf Al Alamein pass.
Itinerary description
Hiking to the start 5'
Head towards the entrance to find small steps to the right and enter the gorge. You're now in the main corridor, which splits into 2 branches, right and left. There are a few pools, and you can put your feet in the water, especially if it has rained recently. The day's routes are on the right (warm up) then on the left, at the beginning or just after the junction.
Course
They're all in the shade, given the narrowness of the gorge, but according to the sun, it still gets into the branches a little. Equipped belays, 90% bolted pitches, with sometimes exposed starts. Some bolts have disappeared or are moving a little. On the whole, you have to climb between the points. The limestone is extraordinary. A 70m rope is sufficient for all the routes.
Good for warming up. Easy start and finish. Remote points to get you in the mood.
Ahmed Alors (20m, 6a+, 4 quickdraws)
Nice route with 2 good pitches in the middle. 1st point still high.
KimBill (30m, 6b+, 10 quickdraws)
Very hard 6b+ boulder pitch at the start, but doable in A0. The rest is V+, long, with good holds.
KimBill 2 (30m, 6c, 10 quickdraws)
Same start, followed by the ridge to the right. A step in the middle and a very fine, slightly overhanging final step to exit. Be careful, same belay as KimBill, so cross at the end.
Brigite d'étape (17m, 6a+, 5 quickdraws)
Super pumpy! and sharpy! 1st nail twisted. Athletic and sharp!
Right Fork
Natou (17m, 6a)
A tricky start below the wide crack, which we climb a little before crossing to the left. Then climb up the spiked slab. Nice to warm up.
Left Fork
Aero Friend (28m, 6a+)
On the left, a large dihedral with a nice crack. Initially in trad but now bolted. An original step leads over a small roof to the dihedral. Then a nice climb in oppositions, not obvious, in Dulfer.
Pat Oman (21m, 6b)
On the right-hand side, a beautiful vertical face. Easy up to a slight overhang with mini colonnettes. A step in 6b and the exit is not obvious. Well equipped!
Central
6c+ route (30m, 12 quickdraws)
Just between Encens Interdit and Crac Boum Huc. Big start with a very difficult pitch. The rest is very vertical and continuous. Fine holds all the way. A demanding but accessible route.
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