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Sport climbing in Rodellar

Publié le 10 July 2015 | Aragon Eng, Spain

Rodellar, the temple of climbing, with its many cliffs and vaults along the Mascun, Andrebot and Alcanadre rivers, remains a top spot for sport climbing if you're in the 7+ range. Since that's not our case, the accessible sectors are limited, and some are so popular with the average person that they're all skated over! Despite this, to alternate with the big canyons of the Sierra, a little sport session is worth the detour, for the atmosphere and also the quality of the rock. Here's a quick tour of some of the sectors accessible from Rodellar.

Technical summary

Access to the place

The village of Rodellar lies in the heart of the Sierra de Guara, at the end of the road and up against the bed of the Mascun, one of the biggest torrents in the area, which crosses the massif from north to south. From the autopsia that runs from Lleida to Juesca, turn off towards Abiego and then Bierge before heading for Rodellar. A small climbers' campsite at the entrance to the village (right) can be used as a base camp (where you'll also find all the necessary topos).

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start

Obviously, this depends on the sector concerned. With the exception of the School sector, which is on the hillside, the other sectors are on either side of the Mascun.

Course

SCHOOL SECTOR

From the village, take the highest path leading to the "Surgencia del Mascun". After the last houses, the path climbs slightly before descending towards the dolphin. On the way up, turn left onto a tiny, unmarked, steep path (a cairn is currently signposted on the right of the path). Descend as best you can to pass under a rocky bar with bulge and overhang which is on the right, opposite the first large vaulted cellar on the opposite side (and before the aiguille décollé).

Orbayu (20m, V, n°9)

The most accessible route. Good for warm-up.

L'école B (25m, V, n°8)

Average equipment at the start. The pitch is V except for a finer final pitch in V+ to reach the belay (joins the 6a next to it).

L'école A (25m, 6a, n°7)

The first two nails are still a long way off. After that it's slab in V/V+ before the final passage in 6a on a traverse (same final as L'école B).

Arepas (17m, 6a+, n°6)

The start is fine, then pass to the right or left (6a). The central part is easier for V/V+ climbers and the final, slightly overhanging section is more physical and can be climbed in 2 stages (use the right edge to relaunch).

RIGOLE SECTOR

This time, descend to the bottom of the Mascun riverbed and climb due north. At a bend to the left, where you'll discover the dolphin, the Rigole sector is on the left in the corner.

topo secteur Rigole 2 — Topo Rigole sector

Quequette (6m, IV+, n°1) and Grenouille (7m, V, n°2)

Introductory routes on the sloping left-hand side.

Tu primer Encadene (12m, V+, n°5)

Nice, slightly harder pitch.

La Rigole (V+, 12m, n°6)

Good and finer, but poorly equipped.

Gabachito Show (12m, 6b, n°7)

Skated and super fine at the start. Slab with finesse and balance but badly equipped.

BIKINI AREA

This is on the right bank of the Mascun, at the very start of the walk from the village (and at the bottom). The part on the right is accessible, the rest on the left much harder (too hard).

topo secteur Bikini — Topo Bikini sector

We did routes 15, 16 and 17 in the V+/6a range, well equipped and not too slippery. The 6a Bikini route, on the other hand, is very slippery and therefore worth a little more...

FUENTE SECTOR

The Rodellar family sector. In the Mascun riverbed, just after the dolphin, on the left. In the shade all afternoon, easy to get to and with refreshments nearby. But a lot of people. What's more, the routes are slippery and therefore not very pleasant.