On the impressive walls of Wadi Nakhur, Oman's grand canyon, on the Jebel Shams plateau, the Spirit of Joggl is a great little route. Although the setting is beautiful, the route described in the Oman Climbing Guidebook is not top-notch, with average rock and some very exposed passages. What's more, the weather didn't cooperate, with rain threatening to fall at any moment. The route therefore needs to be cleaned up and possibly fitted with a few points to protect the most exposed passages and belay 2.
Technical summary
Type ✦ Great trad route
Location ✦ Wadi Nakhur, Jebel Shams
Region ✦ Jebel Akhdar, Western Hajar
Country ✦ Oman
Lengths ✦ 3
Rock ✦ Limestone
Vertical drop ✦ 105m
Difficulty max ✦ 6a+
Interest ✦ ☆
Access to the place
From Al Hamra, drive up the valley to Ghul. Once past the village (magnificent view of the canyon entrance, the abandoned village and the palm grove), follow the road for 30 km as it dips to the east and then climbs steeply to the north. Keep to the right and left forks. Finally, the asfalte gives way to a track in good condition which continues to climb to the right until it reaches a plateau at around 1950m (4×4 preferred, but feasible in a sedan).
Continue along the road (asfalte back) past the Jebel Shams Heights spring and park in one of the bends before reaching the antenna. The approach starts from the end of the Jebel Shams via ferrata.
Itinerary description
Hiking to the start 40'
Reach the top of the waterfall, which plunges into the grand canyon, and unclimb the via ferrata to the bottom (2 sections, see ferrata topo for details). Once on the ground, follow the base of the cliff southwards to pass a large angled pillar. Climb the first landing for 10m to reach a ledge at the foot of the cracks. Position yourself under the one on the left, the start of the Spirit of Joggl route (route E2.2 on the topo).
Course
The route is not equipped at all, so bring a full set of friends, doubled from 0.5 to 2 minimum, and a set of jammers. Maximum difficulty is at 6a+ (L1) then 6a (L2). The rock is not very good, but the climbing is very exposed!
Length 1 (35m, 6a+)
Follow the crack with a step out of the 1st hole. Continue above, then at the second hole, cross to the right for a few very thin, exposed meters (6a+/6b?). We reach a slightly sloping slab which we cross to the right to finally reach another crack. Relay R1 can be climbed on a ledge.
Length 2 (35m, 6a)
Continue along the set of finer cracks to a new ledge. The second part of the pitch along the ridge and then on the ridge is beautiful and airy, but with boulders or farting slats and a small exposed traverse here too. The R2 belay is difficult to climb on an uncomfortable mini-turn.
Length 3 (30m, 6a)
Exposed start to reach a crack and exit to easier terrain. Relay 3 on the big ledge, a little below the via ferrata passage at Jebel Shams.
Back
Walk back up and repeat the upper part of the via ferrata to return quickly to the car.
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