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TOPO Via ferrata | CLIMBING7.COM

Via ferrata delle Trincee, Dolomites

Publié le | Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy

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A classic and historic route in the Dolomites, the via ferrata delle Trincee runs along the Mesola and Padon ridges, facing the imposing Marmolada, the massif's highest peak. While the entry to the route is vertical and fairly technical, the rest is aerial, but without any real difficulty in following the ridges, above, to the right or to the left, with an exceptional panorama, even if today's weather was partly overcast. The 2nd part of the route, on the Padon crêpes, is also historic, with former military installations from the 1st World War and some period galleries dug right into the cliffs. An original, interesting and varied tour. And it can be exceptional on a clear day.

Technical summary

Type ✦ Via Ferrata
Location ✦ Canazeï
Region ✦ Trentino-Alto Adige, Dolomites
Country ✦ Italy
Length ✦ 670m
Vertical rise ✦ 380m
Max. altitude: 2700m
Difficulty ✦ K3
Duration ✦ 4h to 5h
Interest ✦ ★★

Access to the place

Drive up towards Bolzano from Trento and turn right to reach Canazei. From here, take the road to Passo di Fedaia. Once at Lake Fedaia, under the Marmolada, park in front of the Castiglioni refuge.

Map & topo

Voir en plein écran

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 1h

Take path no. 698 opposite the refuge, on the side opposite the road. We climb up a grassy valley in large switchbacks to reach the top of the Porta Vescovo cable car from Arabba in 45'. Continue east for 15' and you're at the foot of the ferrata (on sight and signposted).

Course 2h30

The route runs on a west-east axis, with exceptional panoramic views of the Marmolada to the south and the Sella group to the north. The route is easy to follow, although the trail over the Crêpes de Padon is less well marked. The equipment is excellent. The difficulty lies mainly in the 1st section and a few easy but very aerial passages. You'll need a headlamp to find your way through the galleries.

Part 1: Mesola (1h)

Vertical attack on black rock, a little polished, not so obvious as there's only the cable to help. We quickly gain height, and the slabs and traverses are very aerial. A narrow ridge leads to a small suspension bridge. The site follows the ridge more or less to the right or left, with a few short, easy descents. Finally, after 45', it descends to a small pass. Crossing over, we find some equipment that leads to a kind of over-equipped (recent?) rock piton that can be climbed as a bonus with a great climbing feeling.
Part 2: Crêpe du Padon (1h30 to be confirmed)

Continue along the ridge on the path that runs more to the south, with an almost permanent view of the Marmolada. You soon come across the first ruins and small war caves. The path is always airy, sometimes quite narrow and with panoramic views on the north side too. After de-escalating, we cross the wall for the first time in a short gallery running north-south. Then it's on to the south, with equipped passages where necessary. At the end of the route, we enter the wall again, this time in a very long and impressive gallery, with several side exits. It emerges at the Bontadini bivouac hut. End of the route.

Back

From the Bontadini bivouac hut, descend eastwards towards the Passo Padon hut. At the top of the Padon cable car, take the path marked with yellow and red dots, which heads back west. You follow the ridge in the opposite direction, but well below it. At the end, you can cut back to the approach path below the Porta Vescovo refuge, which you can follow back down to the parking lot.

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