Location ✦ Cortina d'Ampezzo
Region ✦ Dolomites
Country ✦ Italy
Lengths ✦ 5
Vertical rise ✦ 160m
Difficulty max ✦ V+/6a
Interest ✦ ★★
Access to the place
Hiking to the start 20'
After the Maria Flora, on the Canazei side, take the path that climbs up the slope, then fork higher up to go straight up to the base of the first tower. Pass underneath to the right and climb a little to find the start corridor (III).
The route is 160m long in 5 pitches (30m, 30m, 30m, 30m, 40m) and faces south. No equipment other than a few pitons along the way or at belay points. Bring a set of friends/hooks and long straps (crutches). Lengths and positions of belays are indicative. Climbing grades given differ from those in the RockFax guidebook, which in our opinion do not correspond to the difficulties encountered.
L1 (IV, 30m)
A step (IV) to get over the starting boulder, then an easy climb (II/III) up a gully to the pass. Moving stones on the ground. 1 piton to climb the belay on the ridge, at the foot of a small sloping wall.
L2 (IV, 30m)
Climb the sloping wall (IV) to reach a flat area. Then cross to the right (I) to reach the 2nd chimney, which rises to the left.
L3 (V, 30m)
Skated length. After a not-so-obvious start, follow the small inclined chimney that digs in higher up. A few passages are made more delicate by the smoothed holds. At the top, it climbs out on the left side to the belay.
L3 bis (I)
Cross again to the right for about 15m to find the 2nd crack going up. Relay under the start with a piton.
L4 (V-, 30m)
The most beautiful pitch. A very vertical crack with good holds and fairly homogeneous. We finish on the ridge on a small corner platform, with superb views on both sides. Relay with 1 piton.
L5 (V+, 40m)
The hardest pitch: V+ with good skating! Climb a little to the left to get under the wall with polished, round holes. The passage is vertical and athletic (V+) to reach the piton, then continue to exit slightly to the right. The rest is easier (III/IV), and you can walk to the summit (I).
From the summit, take the aerial path heading east on the south side. Descend to reach the pass with the 2nd tour. From here, switch to the opposite flank to follow the path which heads due east before descending with a few passages of III de-escalation. At the bottom, we pick up a path that leads back under the walls to the parking lot.