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For Lubelline, Calamès

Publié le 31 December 2019 | Ariege, France Eng

At the entrance to the Ax-le-Thermes valley, the ruins of the Château de Calamès dominate from the top of a large limestone pyramid. On the south face, a number of large, equipped routes, including Pour Lubelline, one of the most accessible in the Pilier des Cathares sector. 5 pitches in V climbs that are in places quite sustained, with impeccable rock and, above all, an incredible, uninterrupted view of the valley and the Pyrenean peaks. A great option for a fresh start or a short, easy climb in the winter sunshine.

Technical summary

Type ✦ Large equipped track

Location ✦ Bedeilhac

Region ✦ Ariège

Country ✦ France

Lengths ✦ 5

Dénivelé ✦ 180m

Difficulty max ✦ V

Duration ✦ 2h to 3h

Interest ✦ ★

Access to the place

At the large traffic circle off the 4-lane road from Foix, turn right towards Saurat. Drive up through the village of Bedeilhac. Keep on going, and at the end of the village on the left, park in the parking lot provided for access to the climbing areas.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 20'

From the parking lot, take the alleyway through the village and follow the red and yellow markings. Descend a little, then turn right onto a well-marked forest path. Climb up to exit at the base of the walls. Pass in front of the first climbing areas, then quickly branch off to climb steeply to the upper walls. Higher up, branch off a second time to reach the base of the Pilier des Cathares, which is clearly recognizable. Route names are inscribed on the rock. Climb a little to the right to find the start of Pour Lubelline.

Course 2h30 à 3h

Large, well-equipped route, with equipped and chained belays. The route faces due south. The route is fairly straightforward except for L1, where the 6a pitch is very close on the right. You can expect 1 or 2 average friends for a few spaced equipped passages.

L1 (30m, V)

A fairly homogeneous pitch with a few finer pitches. It climbs on a slight diagonal. Relay R1 is fairly narrow.

L2 (25m, V)

This pitch includes a harder slab above the start, which could be worth V+. The rest is easier up to R2, which is also not very comfortable.

L3 (30m, V)

Here too, there are 1 more vertical passages to negotiate, with few clear holds. Relay R3 not very comfortable.

L4 (30m, V)

Easier length with nice mid-length tubs to get over a small bulge.

L5 (45m, V)

Long finish with 1 or 2 finer passages. Final R5 relay at ridge level.

Back

Continue up the easy ridge to the ruins of Château de Calamès. The return path runs behind and steeply downhill until it crosses the Col de Dijou. From here, turn left on the red and yellow signposted path and return to the starting parking lot.