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Ferrata Venes de Rojalons, Montblanc

Publié le 12 May 2023 | Catalunya Eng, Spain

North of Reus and just above Montblanc, there's something special about the Venes de Rojalons via ferrata. The cliff on which it is built is modest, emerging timidly from the pine forest that covers the mountain. But inside, an almost speleological itinerary has been equipped to traverse a deep aven or avenc that forms a long gallery invisible from the outside. While the outside section is rather difficult (K4+), with some very athletic steps, the inside section, less difficult, is more focused on originality and a novel underground experience. The route is therefore highly original, but on the whole difficult, even if there are many easier options to avoid the toughest passages.

Technical summary

■ S tarting point: 4 km above the village of Rojalons, south of Montblanc, Catalunya, Spain
■ Type of route: via ferrata with caving section
■ Direction: south
■ Equipped length: unknown
■ Vertical rise: +40 m
■ Estimated total time: 1h30 to 2h
■ Min and max altitude: 720 m / 850 m
■ Equipment in place: excellent, rungs, chains, pedals, nails, 2 monkey bridges
■ Equipment required: standard + headlamp mandatory

Difficulty: K4+ or D+, several overhanging sections, some with a very pronounced overhang, easier options possible for the hardest pitches.

Access to the place

On the C-14 that climbs north from Reus, in Montblanc, take the small Rojals road. Go up the dozen or so twists and turns, some of them very tight, and just after the milestone at kilometer 4, there's a double zone on the right-hand side for parking (approx. 12 cars).

Map & topo

Voir en plein écran

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 15'

Go downhill a little on the road and take the track going up on the opposite side (no sign or markings). Follow this track as it twists and turns through the forest. Higher up, you'll see a small cliff emerging from the woods, and on a flat area, take the path that climbs towards the base of the walls (large cairns at the entrance). You're almost at the start, with a sign and information panel.

Course 1h

Part 1: outside crossing (K4+, 40')

It gets off to a strong start with a slightly overhanging wall to be negotiated cold in either the difficult (right K4+) or "easy" (left K3+) version. Right there, the first little bridge to cross under a roof. A 2nd pitch with a slightly overhanging start again, a traverse to cross a dihedral and continue across, skirting the rock above the void. A short ascent, then another traverse with the feet on scrap nails, before de-escalating to continue the traverse one level lower. Then it's back up again and we find an escape route.

Resume the descent without too much difficulty to reach the second sign bridge which leads to a high wall to be climbed and which ends with a rocky beak to be climbed on the slope (K4+, no explosive exit, option K2 of exit on the left). You're now on top of the cliff. Climb back down with chains and literally enter the cliff below to start the caving section.

Part 2: interior traverse (K4-, 20')

Headlamp compulsory. This is the start of a traverse through the rocky entrails, first walking and then following the bars hanging from one of the walls. Further on, we thread our way through a small, very narrow passage (without the bag), then the route climbs between the sculpted walls towards the sky, ending in the difficult final section (K4-). Use the wall behind you and the natural holds to extract yourself and finally exit through a hole on the summit.

Back

From the summit, descend on the small path on the south side with cairns, which will return fairly quickly to the start of the ferrata. All that remains is to make the approach in the opposite direction to the starting parking lot.