TOPO Climbing

Pasión por la Birra al Moles del Don, Els Ports, Spain

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Au relais R3

Arnes, at the entrance to dels Ports. From our magnificent gite, we head straight for Els Estrets to reach the Moles del Don crag, easily recognizable on the right, on the other side of the riu. The atmosphere is there, even if the weather isn't quite right that day. Having said that, the name of the route makes you want to go for a walk... The first 3 pitches are basically the same, with one or two V+/6a passages in each, but nothing really nasty. The equipment is good, except for the L4 expo with a single nail to finish. Original outing: descend via one of the recently equipped "canals" along the ridge on the left, the Skpat one today.

Technical summary

Access to the place

From Arnes, take the small road that winds through the fields towards Els Estret and park at the far end (parking lot).

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start

Follow the path into the gorge, skirting the riu below to the right. Take 2 or 3 bends and you'll see the Gronsa in front of you, then another right-hand bend and you'll come around the Moles del Don, which is angled to the right (see photo, easily recognizable). Cross the riu a little further on and climb up the side to reach the foot of the path, to the right of the tree, below a vertical crack.

Course

The route is 135m in 4 pitches (40m, 40m, 40m, 15m). The route is almost vertical. The route is fully equipped, 6a level required.


L1 (40m, V+/6a)

Diagonal start to the right, 1st high point. Follow the nail line in the V and pass a lip a little higher up with a step in V+/6a to reach relay R1.


L2 (40m, V+/6a)

Start diagonally left this time, then continue vertically. A fine passage at this point, then climb up without too much difficulty to belay R2.


L3 (40m, V+)

Here too, a not-so-obvious passage with a bulge. The end becomes steeper as you reach R3.


L4 (15m, V)

An uninteresting length with a single nail on the right and a small wall to overcome. Relay R4 is placed on the ground, a little below the summit. Watch out for stones that are just waiting to roll onto the next one.

Back

You can follow the ridge to the right to descend via an equipped canal or, as we have chosen, follow another equipped canal to the left: the Canal del Skpat.

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