TOPO Climbing | CLIMBING7.COM

El Rap del Niño, Cavallers

Publié le 16 July 2015 | Catalunya Eng, Spain

Cavallers lies at the entrance to the Aigüestortes National Park in the Val d'Aran. A superb mountain backdrop for El Rap del Niño, a large, well-equipped route that is accessible but really tough. We climb on magnificent granite, and the slab sections are perhaps the most difficult to negotiate, with a lot of grip on almost nothing and nails quite a long way off. The route is in 2 parts, with a wide grassy section in between. A small, moderately-equipped wall in 6b, a generally committed and sustained climb in the V+/6a range.

Technical summary

Type ✦ Large equipped route

Location ✦ Vinya Nova, Montserrat Sud

Region ✦ Catalunya

Country ✦ Spain

Orientation ✦ South

Lengths ✦ 6

Dénivelé ✦ 275m

Max difficulty ✦ 6b

Rock ✦ Granite

Interest ✦ ★★

Access to the place

On the road from Vielha to Pont de Suert in Catalunya, turn off towards Aigüestortes and head up past Caldès de Boi, ending up in one of the parking lots at the foot of the dam.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 30'

The easiest way is to reach the right-hand edge of the dam at water level (more convenient than going underneath), then cross over to the left-hand edge. Then follow the path to the right, which descends a little, then climbs with a sports area on the left until you reach a descent to the bed of a torrent. Climb back up with a few III climbs to find the start of the route on the right, before the waterfall and the dip. There's 1 bolt with a rope at the start and a low bolt for the belayer.

Course

The route is generally south-facing and is 275m long in 8 pitches (35m, 40m, 20m, 40m, transition, 45m, 35m,25m,35m). Fully equipped, it's a good idea to bring a few stoppers (between 0.5 and 1) for protection (except the slabs!). In the sun, of course, but given the altitude, it's quite bearable. Compulsory level is 6b.

Length 1 (35m, 6a)

A small step at the start, then a diagonal climb under the roof (stay under the points). The final passage under the roof to exit is tricky, then recover and climb the belay a little higher on the left. Nothing too difficult on this 1st pitch.

Length 2 (40m, V+)

This is a long diagonal traverse that sets the tone for the granite slab. Not very fine at the start, the middle section is easier before the finish in a small inclined dihedral with plenty of grip. Relay 2 comfort on a flat area.

Length 3 (20m, V+)

Cross again with a fine, airy pitch to reach a small dihedral to be climbed in oppositoon, which is not easy (shallow crack). The 2nd part of the pitch is easier in V.

Length 4 (40m, V+)

The start is easy with the help of a huge crack, then a slab crossing that's great but a bit tricky. Lots of fine grip to finish on a large grassy flat (R4 belay) and make the transition by walking to the left for around 70m to find the start of L5 to the left of a characteristic dihedral.

Length 5 (45m, 6a+)

Straight, vertical start with small but fairly straightforward holds, then a grip passage to the small roof. Pass to the left, climb up the dihedral (very fine!) before the hardest part of the route: a very thin slab, equipped far away, to pass over 3 times nothing...

Length 6 (35m, V+)

A rest after L5. An alternation of nice cracks and grips. A right and then a left turn to the relay on a flat.

Length 7 (25m, 6b)

Cross 10m before climbing up to the vertical wall. There are 2 steps to recover balance and exit above without protection. (by pulling on the nail, it passes but remains engaged).

Length 8 (35m, IV+)

An uninteresting pitch except for finishing the route. It's easy right up to the belay on a big fir tree.

Back

Walk up a little further and cross the mouth of the torrent. On the other side, cairns indicate a path leading down from the Comelastorres wall. At the bottom, cross the dam in the opposite direction to reach the parking lot.