Just a stone's throw from the prehistoric site of the Corbières, between the villages of Vingrau and Tautavel, the Gorges de Gouleyrous offer dozens of sport climbing routes on either side of the Verdouble, which has been carving its bed in the limestone for some time. With its translucent green water and exceptional rock faces, the site is fantastic for climbing, and there's something for everyone, from IV to 8, moving from one bank to the other to find yourself in the shade (in summer) or the sun (in winter). The Gouleyrous site and many others in Tautavel are part of the Route de la Grimpe project, and the site, closed recently for safety reasons, reopened in 2015, as did the Vingrau cliffs a few kilometers away.
Technical summary
Access to the place
The village lies to the north-west of Perpignan, on the border between the P.O. and Aude departments. From Perpignan, take the freeway exit signposted Opioul, Tautavel and, after a few kilometers and a small pass, enter this splendid valley via Vingrau. Go through the village, take the main road to Tautavel and quickly turn right towards the Gorges de Gouleyrous (signposted). Park before or after the bridge over the Verdouble (small parking area).
Itinerary description
Hiking to the start 2'
From the parking lot, follow the path opposite and you'll soon come to the end of the gorge on the left-hand edge of the swimming pool. Continue to reach the gorge and the path that runs along the bottom of the tracks to the target area (some passages are equipped with a handrail). Cross with your feet in the water to reach the opposite side of the walls.
Course Les voies par secteur
Facing East or West, the routes are between 10m and 40m in some cases. The equipment in place is in good condition, with sealed pins as far as we could see, but without being generous (you have to climb between the nails...) so it's best to have the right level to get started. The routes are rated according to their level, and the rock is quite exceptional, albeit with a patina in places. Please refer to the guide de la route de la grimpe tome 2 (available in the village), from which some images are taken below. Only the sectors and routes tested are mentioned here. In each sector, the routes are listed from left to right.
DESTIN FARÇEUR SECTOR
Left bank, among the first, after the initiation sector.
Destin Farceur sector routes, Gorges de Gouleyrous
Hey You (27m, 6a, n°3)
The start is slippery and the 2 steps in 6a are all about placement, balance and grip. Much easier in V afterwards.
Cri de Panique (25m, 6b, n°4)
Idem hey You, it's the pas de bloc start on a skated pole that's worth the 6b. After that, it's in the V (same belay as Hey You).
Turlututu (30m, V+, n°6)
Very nice 1st part in the V and after the small roof dihedral, the slab is thinner.
SECTOR
On the left bank but further on, after an equipped passage.
Tracks in the À corps et à cris sector, Gorges de Gouleyrous
On a perched tree (35m, 6a, n°13)
The route on the topo no longer corresponds to reality. Climb the 1st section via the left-hand ramp (3 points) to the large landing in front of the cave. From here, follow the aerial ridge. A slightly harder step before the relay. Great atmosphere!
GROTTE TECHNO SECTOR
On the right bank, continue on the left bank with a 2d higher equipped passage and cross the Verdouble opposite the grotto.
Routes in the Grotte Techno sector, Gorges de Gouleyrous
Be Happy (20m, 6a+, n°1)
The leftmost. Some conti in the arms, an awkward second section with nails a little far away (final bulge to be bypassed to the left).
Alegria (20m, 6b+, n°2)
1st part on an athletic overhang but clear holds, 2nd part on slabs with a big step just to the right of the nails with a hidden tri-finger for the exit.
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