Location ✦ Vinya Nova, Montserrat Sud
Region ✦ Catalunya
Country ✦ Spain
Orientation ✦ South
Lengths ✦ 6
Dénivelé ✦ 275m
Max difficulty ✦ 6b
Rock ✦ Granite
Interest ✦ ★★
Access to the place
Hiking to the start 30'
The easiest way is to reach the right-hand edge of the dam at water level (more convenient than going underneath), then cross over to the left-hand edge. Then follow the path to the right, which descends a little, then climbs with a sports area on the left until you reach a descent to the bed of a torrent. Climb back up with a few III climbs to find the start of the route on the right, before the waterfall and the dip. There's 1 bolt with a rope at the start and a low bolt for the belayer.
The route is generally south-facing and is 275m long in 8 pitches (35m, 40m, 20m, 40m, transition, 45m, 35m,25m,35m). Fully equipped, it's a good idea to bring a few stoppers (between 0.5 and 1) for protection (except the slabs!). In the sun, of course, but given the altitude, it's quite bearable. Compulsory level is 6b.
Length 1 (35m, 6a)
A small step at the start, then a diagonal climb under the roof (stay under the points). The final passage under the roof to exit is tricky, then recover and climb the belay a little higher on the left. Nothing too difficult on this 1st pitch.
Length 2 (40m, V+)
This is a long diagonal traverse that sets the tone for the granite slab. Not very fine at the start, the middle section is easier before the finish in a small inclined dihedral with plenty of grip. Relay 2 comfort on a flat area.
Length 3 (20m, V+)
Cross again with a fine, airy pitch to reach a small dihedral to be climbed in oppositoon, which is not easy (shallow crack). The 2nd part of the pitch is easier in V.
Length 4 (40m, V+)
The start is easy with the help of a huge crack, then a slab crossing that's great but a bit tricky. Lots of fine grip to finish on a large grassy flat (R4 belay) and make the transition by walking to the left for around 70m to find the start of L5 to the left of a characteristic dihedral.
Length 5 (45m, 6a+)
Straight, vertical start with small but fairly straightforward holds, then a grip passage to the small roof. Pass to the left, climb up the dihedral (very fine!) before the hardest part of the route: a very thin slab, equipped far away, to pass over 3 times nothing...
Length 6 (35m, V+)
A rest after L5. An alternation of nice cracks and grips. A right and then a left turn to the relay on a flat.
Length 7 (25m, 6b)
Cross 10m before climbing up to the vertical wall. There are 2 steps to recover balance and exit above without protection. (by pulling on the nail, it passes but remains engaged).
Length 8 (35m, IV+)
An uninteresting pitch except for finishing the route. It's easy right up to the belay on a big fir tree.
Walk up a little further and cross the mouth of the torrent. On the other side, cairns indicate a path leading down from the Comelastorres wall. At the bottom, cross the dam in the opposite direction to reach the parking lot.