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Via ferrata de Chironne, Chamaloc

Publié le 2 August 2021 | Drome Eng, France Eng

At the southern entrance to the Vercors, in a magnificent high-mountain landscape, the via ferrata de Chironne offers a very interesting, aerial, sporting route, with an original passage behind a rocky needle and a central section with a sustained, physical overhang. Very popular in high season, the route is well worth the detour for the exceptional panoramic views it affords over the Drôme valley. Options are available to enjoy the route with less difficulty, but the route remains hard and is aimed at experienced climbers.

Technical summary

The data correspond to the 2 linked parts.

■ S tarting point: Col de Rousset, Chamaloc, Drome (26)
■ Type of route: via ferrata
■ Direction: east
■ Length: 500 m
■ Vertical rise: +160 m
■ Estimated total time: 1h30 to 2h30
■ Min and max altitude: 1215 m / 1375 m
■ Equipment in place: excellent, bars, beams, monkey bridges and long zip lines
■ Equipment required: standard equipment

Difficulty: D/TD or K3/K4, the most difficult section is avoidable.

Access to the place

From Die, head north on the D518 towards Chamaloc. Continue past the village and climb the series of steep switchbacks to reach the Col de Rousset. Park just before the tunnel on the right, or a little earlier on the side if the parking lot is full.

Map & topo

Voir en plein écran

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 10'

From the parking lot, walk along the road back downhill to quickly find the via information sign and the track that climbs to the base of the cliffs, following a section of the GR 93. It climbs gently upwards and once below the cliffs, leave the GR and take the tiny bit of path that leads to the start, at the foot of a high pillar.

Course 1h à 2h

Perfectly equipped, almost too much so in places, with chained belays to call back just in case. Marking and signposting during the route and on the way back are impeccable.

Part 1: La Chandelle (D)

The route starts off fairly vertical and increasingly up a high pillar, with a few small ledges to take breaks and arrive below the Chandelle, a kind of rocky needle slightly detached from the wall, invisible from afar. The route then shifts to the left to thread its way between the Chandelle and the wall via an original little couloir, which you pass in opposition with a few small pedals, ending up balancing on a beam stuck to the wall. Immediately afterwards, you can escape to the easier variant.

Part 2: Roof crossing (TD)

The most sustained and physical section. Cross over the void and over a ridge to find the start of the overhanging passage behind. A flight of closely spaced rungs facilitates progress and allows you to walk alongside each other at any time to rest your arms. The overhang is almost permanent and quite pronounced in places. It climbs obliquely to cross horizontally at higher levels. There's a tricky section with 2 very wide rungs that you have to negotiate with your back off balance and without being able to walk alongside each other too much. The end of this section is less difficult but still very aerial. At the end of the traverse, another small, invigorating step takes you out onto the large ledge.

Part 3: the big wall (Transition)

Climb back up to the base of the upper walls. Simply walk along the rock until you reach the foot of the walls on the final section.

Part 4: the final section (AD)

Easier, this final section still includes a series of slightly sloping walls and several jumps before crossing again and climbing the last wall that takes us out onto the summit. Exceptional panorama to the south.

Back

From the summit, descend following the huge cairns and skirting the wall. At the bottom, turn left down the slope and, after a large hairpin bend, you'll find a wide path for the GR 93 Pays du tour du Vercors dromois. You're soon back at the starting parking lot at Col de Rousset.