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Via Ferrata du Saint-Julien, Buis-les-Baronnies

Publié le 14 August 2021 | Drome Eng, France Eng

Traced on the Rocher Saint-Julien above Buis-les-Baronnies, 4 itineraries are proposed to take advantage of an exceptional rock and an aerial panorama over the village and the entrance to the Gorges d'Ubrieux: an introductory itinerary and three routes rated Difficult to Very Difficult on the central wall. Starting on the west side, we were able to test the Testouriasso and Roumpo Quiéu routes, for a sporty and sustained sequence of fun, varied and aerial climbs. The 3rd route, the Tihousso, has yet to be discovered and starts on the east side. Steep sections, overhanging traverses, monkey bridges and footbridges are the order of the day, with the help of very generous equipment and in complete safety. The wall is generally north-facing, but in summer, it's best to climb the routes on the west side in the morning and the east side in the afternoon, to avoid drying out in the hot sun.

Technical summary

The data below relates to the 2 routes: Testouriasso (blue) / Roumpo Quiéu (black).

■ S tarting point: Rocher Saint-Julien, Buis-les-Baronnies, Drôme (26)
■ Type of route: via ferrata with several routes at different levels.
■ Direction: north
■ Length: 1100 m (460m + 640m)
■ Positive vertical drop: 140m
■ Estimated total time: 4h to 5h
■ Min and max altitude: 480 m / 680 m
■ Equipment in place: excellent, 3 Nepalese bridges, 1 wall beam, 2 beams, 1 monkey bridge, 3 monkey bridges, 1 zip line not mandatory
■ Equipment required: standard equipment

Difficulty: D or K4 / D+ or K4+ (TD or K5 not compulsory)

Access to the place

Buis-les-Baronnies lies to the northeast of Vaison-la-Romaine, on the banks of the Ouvèze river, in the southern Drôme region. In Buis-les-Baronnies, climb up to the unmissable Rocher Saint-Julien and park either at the Pitchouno trailhead (limited space) or higher up at the Rieuchaud ravine parking lot.

Map & topo

Voir en plein écran

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 20' à 30'

Return to the Pitchouno parking lot and walk a few metres downhill to find the path leading to the start of the Testouriasso, blue route. An information panel at the start. The path climbs steeply and in small switchbacks. Further up, look for the fork in the path leading to the wall.

Course 3h à 4h

The 2 routes can be linked, as the end of the Testouriasso route crosses the start of the Roumpo Quiéu. Even though the latter is rated D+ whereas the former is D, we found them to be of comparable difficulty, with the latter a little more challenging, except for the small section of overhanging terrain in the Roumpo Quiéu, rated ED (more like TD for us), but avoidable. The whole route is generally horizontal, with alternating ascents, traverses and descents.

La Testouriasso or the "Stubborn" (D or K4, 1h30 to 2h)

It starts with a diagonal ascent in increments, alternating small walls and traverses to reach the 1st flat. Continuing on a ramp or mini-turn along the wall, you almost reach the ridge, with views to the north and south. A new, increasingly aerial traverse and a large wall to climb to exit at a second, higher level. Another switchback climbs up, passing between a shrub and the wall to attack a high slab and a traverse leading to the 1st monkey bridge.

Behind this bridge, passage over a mini wooden beam to climb this time the face of a rock pillar and exit at the top by skirting the ridge, a very aerial passage. Behind, the traverse continues and rises slightly to pass the 2nd monkey bridge. It climbs a little more before finally descending, walking on a second wooden beam and crossing the black Roumpo Quiéu route (which normally starts a little lower down). To finish the Testouriasso, continue on the blue route.

The Roumpo Quiéu or "Casse Cul" (D+ or K4+, TD or K5 option, 1h30 to 2h)

It starts quickly with a monkey bridge, then a long, very vertical section to climb, with a few more "technical" steps to exit on the summit ridge. Cross over a beam to change rock and take the large footbridge. Here we find the ED (let's say TD) option, with a small, steep section to climb that's a real handful. Alternatively, continue at the bottom, as the 2 routes quickly merge. Continue to the next monkey bridge. Negotiate another long, sporty slab and exit onto a small beam followed by another mini monkey bridge. You're now almost on the ridge.

Descend in a rather impressive dihedral to cross over a long beam below, followed by an aerial ledge and another beam, then a little further down, another monkey bridge. Continue around the rounded ridge and enter a rocky couloir. Climb down from one wall to the next towards a large boulder stuck in the middle. Climb back up behind to pass over a mini-beam and climb back up to reach a long Nepalese bridge that leads to the end marked by a high cross that can be seen opposite.

Back

Descend in a couloir, then pass equipped jumps and a small final wall before rejoining the path. Follow it downhill until you cross the road from Buis-les-Baronnies. Follow the road back up to the starting parking lot.